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Initially, I wanted the rack to
be removeable because I was using a Yakima rack system to carry my canoe or
dual canoes when necessary. I also didn't want to have to drill any more holes
in my camper shell. So, I really liked the Wilderness Rack because it easily
installs on an existing Yakima cross-bar system with the use of special clamps
made just for the rack's "feet" to bolt to. At first I was a little uneasy
about the looks of the added height that the Yakima bars gave the rack. But it
actually makes it much easier to wash the top the camper and run straps or
bungee cords under the rack when fastening items down. |
Here is a close-up view of how the
rack mounts to the Yakima cross-bars. You can also see the forward bracket for
the "Loc-Rac" Hi-Lift jack mounting system. Garvin Industries offers a mounting
system for the Hi-Lift, but I found this one to be less expensive. As the name
implies, it allows the jack to be locked while mounted. The use of the Loc-Rac
required drilling mounting holes in the rack structure. |
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The Yakima towers rest on Yakima "rails" which are fastened to the camper shell. The fiberglass shell is essentially "sandwiched" between the rails and these plates on the inside of the shell. |
Here is a shot of the Hi-Lift jack mounted
to the rack using the Loc-Rac system. This location allows fast and easy access
to the jack. |
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I use a cover for the Hi-Lift to keep it in
good condition. I've had the cover on since the roof rack was installed and
it seems to be holding up very well. It's kept all of the miles of dirt, dust,
rain and snow off the jack, so keeping the jack in good working order is much easier. |