Tacoma Suspension - Control Arms, part 4

Control Arms
Part IV

The following text and photos illustrate work performed on a 1998 Toyota Tacoma 4WD, but should also be representative of 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 and 2004 Tacoma model years. Click photos to enlarge.

With the ball joint removed, you can remove the upper control arm pivot bolt. This is a long bolt that spans both front and rear bushings.

In my case, a plastic harness clamp and a cable loom was in the way, preventing me from pulling the long bolt free on the driver's side (left side).

By removing the plastic clamp and moving the cable loom, I was able to slide the bolt out just barely below the battery tray. Your results may vary.

On the passenger (right) side, there was plenty of room beside the air box to slide the bolt out.

Old arm and bushing (left) and new arm and bushing (right). Installation is reverse of removal. Torque upper control arm bolts to spec. (87 lb/ft).

Now it's time to press the new upper ball joint into the steering knuckle. I used the same pitman arm puller that was used to press out the lower ball joints and the tie rod ends, but I cut the opening of the jaws to a dimension of 1.75". (Thanks to TTORA member "CajunTaco" for the tip) If you decide to do this, be sure to use the tool to press out the other joints first (lower BJs and TREs) before you cut it for use with the upper BJs. At the time of writing, this tool costs about $15 at AutoZone or $7 at Harbor Freight.

The Toyota upper ball joint (Part # 43310-39016) comes with these pieces: Instructions, new castle nut and cotter pin, c-clip, rubber boot, wire clamp, white grease (to be packed inside boot) and yellow grease (to be packed around dust seal opening (small end of boot)).

With the modified pitman arm puller and a piece of flat steel (I used a SuperBar) carefully press the new joint into the steering knuckle. As you tighten the bolt and press the joint, be sure to watch the circumference of the joint seat to ensure it presses evenly into the opening. (The white plastic you see in the photo is a cable-tie that I used to help support the steering knuckle.)

On to Part V

Home

	With the ball joint removed, you can remove the upper control arm pivot bolt. This is a long bolt that spans both front and rear bushings.
In my case, a plastic harness clamp and a cable loom was in the way, preventing me from pulling the long bolt free on the driver's side (left side).
	By removing the plastic clamp and moving the cable loom, I was able to slide the bolt out just barely below the battery tray. Your results may vary.
On the passenger (right) side, there was plenty of room beside the air box to slide the bolt out.
	Old arm and bushing (left) and new arm and bushing (right). Installation is reverse of removal. Torque upper control arm bolts to spec. (87 lb/ft).
Now it's time to press the new upper ball joint into the steering knuckle. I used the same pitman arm puller that was used to press out the lower ball joints and the tie rod ends, but I cut the opening of the jaws to a dimension of 1.75". (Thanks to TTORA member "CajunTaco" for the tip) If you decide to do this, be sure to use the tool to press out the other joints first (lower BJs and TREs) before you cut it for use with the upper BJs. At the time of writing, this tool costs about $15 at AutoZone or $7 at Harbor Freight.
	The Toyota upper ball joint (Part # 43310-39016) comes with these pieces: Instructions, new castle nut and cotter pin, c-clip, rubber boot, wire clamp, white grease (to be packed inside boot) and yellow grease (to be packed around dust seal opening (small end of boot)).
With the modified pitman arm puller and a piece of flat steel (I used a SuperBar) carefully press the new joint into the steering knuckle. As you tighten the bolt and press the joint, be sure to watch the circumference of the joint seat to ensure it presses evenly into the opening. (The white plastic you see in the photo is a cable-tie that I used to help support the steering knuckle.)